Tuesday 23 June 2015

Trekking in the Tatra

It’s hard to pinpoint exactly where my urge to explore the world comes from. Sure, I spend my days studying a foreign language, learning about the Germanic way of life and delving into its literature and culture. And yes, I moved 250 miles away from my home in the south to experience life in a bustling northern city. Hey, I even have the German word for  Wanderlust tattooed on my foot, and spend my free time devouring travel guides and soaking up stunning photography of far off lands.  So you could say that my everyday life revolves exploring the unknown, discovering new places and trying new things. But my wanderlust was just as strong before I took up a German degree at the University of Manchester.


I have been travelling abroad on family holidays all over Europe since the age of five, from the Austrian Tyrol to Amsterdam, but as a family we never strayed far from the places in the travel brochure. The trip that really sparked a desire to get off the beaten track and to use a holiday to expose yourself to incredible experiences and not just for relaxation, was when I went mountain walking in Slovenia’s Tatras.
When I signed up to the 10 day trip to Slovakia and Hungary with my explorer scout group I was so excited. The itinerary looked fantastic. Sightseeing in Budapest. Great. Staying in a small Slovakian town. Cool/ why not. Visiting a water park and thermal spa. Brilliant. There was just thing that I wasn't exactly overjoyed at the thought of. Three days of hiking in the mountains. I was fourteen at the time and the typical lazy teenager. I avoided exercise like commuters avoid conversation on the tube, and I’d been on my P.E teacher’s black list all year. The thought of spending 3 days in the heat, sweaty and out of breath didn't exactly fill me with joy, yet it turned out to be my favourite and most memorable aspect of the trip.  Still, it wasn't something I fell in love with instantly.
I remember waking up the morning of our first hike, with little energy and far less motivation. We had arrived at the hostel at one in the morning and had to be up at seven for an eight o clock start. The sun was already drying off the dew on the grass outside and we were repeatedly told to put sun cream on before we left. The weather forecast had predicted a meltingly hot day and I groaned inwardly. I was not good with the heat at the best of times. But a whole day's hiking in it was my idea of hell.
The first hour of the hike was hard work. The steep incline from the off left my thighs burning and my throat dry. Why was I doing this again? I was supposed to be on holiday, yet this was not enjoyable. Why had I thought this trip would be a good idea? I hated exercise. But as the first hour passed my body adapted to the climb. The panting eased and I felt more strength in my leg muscles than pain. I began to enjoy myself and pushed to see how quickly I could get up the huge rocks that were arranged like a spiral staircase up the mountain path. And whenever I stopped to get my breath back I was rewarded with the intoxicating view of apple green fields stretching for miles. The higher I climbed the more spectacular the view became. I was beginning to see what all the fuss was about.
Woo look I made it up a mountain.
The great thing about walking the Tatras is that the terrain changes regularly. Just as your skin is starting to prickle from exposure to the sun the path heads into a forest and the cool air soothes the redness, whilst your eyes are captivated by the sight of waterfalls and countless types of flora and fauna. Just as you need warming up the forest fizzles out and you’re in the open air again. Because of this the landscape never becomes boring or “like the rest of walk”. You find yourself constantly looking around and taking it all in. One of my most vivid memories was walking along a path in the early evening, which on one side gave way to a stunning view of the forest below, and stretched so far that I could see pancake flat fields and splatterings of tiny houses in the distance. I remember asking to stop for a few seconds. Not because I was tired, or in pain, but because I just wanted to stop and appreciate what was in front of me. I had no idea that all this stunning scenery was hidden away in a former member of the eastern bloc.
Totally loving that shit. 
The best views though, were saved for the top of the mountains. There is nothing quite like hauling your exhausted little body up the last few rocks to the peak, your head pulsating, your entire body red hot, only to be greeted with the best reward you could think of. A 360 degree view of nature at its finest: mountains and grey skies one way, green fields and sunshine the other. When you discover the mist around you is in fact clouds you realise how high you are, you feel suddenly powerful, omniscient. I remember standing up on my now very shaky legs and feeling as if I was one of the gods on mount Olympus. The ice cold wind cooled my burning skin and I began to find a new found love of the great outdoors.

However not all of the trek felt as incredible and thought provoking as that moment. Although most people can’t wait to get back down again, the walk down the mountain is far less enjoyable than the walk up.  By now you’re tired, your feet are sore and each time your sole makes contact with the ground you feel a hot pain at impact, your feet and calves become more inflamed, your back starts to hurt and your shoulders sting from the heavy weight of your rucksack. Soon, your sugar levels become low and your legs feel more and more like jelly. At this point even tripping is enough to throw you over the edge. I was close to tears at times. I just wanted to stop, but was urged to keep going even though I was running on empty. I wanted an easy solution, but there wasn’t one. The only way off this mountain was by foot. I’d just have to grin and bear the pain, the cold and damp, and the gnawing hunger in my stomach. For another three hours.

Throughout the hike, I felt that I’d finally reached my limit, only to keep going and realise that I still had more in me. My tolerance level gradually rose with each step and I discovered that I was capable of a lot more than I thought. Before this trip, I’d been the type of person that wouldn’t do something if they thought it might be a bit difficult or uncomfortable, and wished for constant plain sailing. But the reward of exerting yourself and pushing yourself to the limits hit me that day when we finally reached the restaurant that marked the last part of the hike, and of course lunch. My friend and I were so hungry (we’d had no time to buy snacks and the only food we’d had that day was a tiny plate of sausage and bread at the overnight stay in a mountain hostel) that the sight of the restaurant was like a mirage in the desert. I was so weak that I could barely get up the steps or hold a knife and fork, but the sensation of just being able to sit down in the warm, after a day of exposure to the elements, and eat something warm and filling was incredible. When I’d refuelled and finally come back to my senses, I thought about what I had just done and felt a huge rush of adrenaline. I had achieved something I didn’t think I could do, and had had the most incredible adventure at the same time.
 It was there, in that little Slovakian restaurant on a rainy summer afternoon, that my definition of a holiday changed. It’s not just about getting away for a week and relaxing somewhere else, it’s about throwing yourself into new experiences and seeing where your limits could take you. Now when I book plane tickets I plan for adventures, rather than for days on a sun lounger. I’ve firmly got the bug to see as much of the world as I can, and do as much as possible, regardless of how demanding it is, both in everyday life and on holiday. My whole perspective shifted that day, and to think that all it took was pair of hiking boots and some fresh air.



Tuesday 16 June 2015

10 Things I've learnt after living up north.

Nine months ago I moved 250 miles away from a small town in West Sussex to the bustling northern city of Manchester for university. I've learnt a lot in my first year, but not just in terms of my degree. Living up north has been an eye opener and kind of a culture shock. Here's 10 things I've learnt since living up North.


1. They are Greggs EVERYWHERE. 
It seems that northerners can't go far without the prospect of being able to buy a pasty. There seems to be a Greggs on every street corner, the equivalent to Starbucks in New York.


The holy grail of the north
2. Lunch is Dinner and Dinner is Tea.
When I was working in my first semester my bosses would come up to me and say "Have you had your dinner yet?" It would always confuse me, as I worked mornings, not late evening. I felt like saying "Of course not, it's half twelve." I soon realised that "dinner" is northerner speak for lunch. Tea up here refers to your evening meal. I tried to explain the concept of afternoon tea to my friend from Blackpool and he was very confused.


3. People actually talk up here.
I'm used to not talking to people in public, feeling guilty when I sneeze or cough on the tube and avoiding eye contact with people in a lift. When I moved up here it was weird at first that people would and wanted to talk. The small talk at the checkout is actually genuine, rather than forced for good customer service reports. It's now something I love. I got a shock today though, when back down south, I had bad, rude service at the checkout in Wilkinsons.

4. It doesn't actually rain that much.
When I told my friends and family that I'd chosen the University of Manchester as my firm choice I was bombarded with jokes about it being the rainiest place in the country. But it actually seemed to rain a lot less than down in the south. I can count the number of times I've been caught out in he rain this year on one hand, and even then it's only been spitting.

5. It's so much cheaper.
Despite the fact, that I live in a city. I'm paying around £90 less a week for rent, than my friends at uni in the south. And I'm not shelling out ridiculous prices for alcohol either. I can finally afford to drink in places other than Wetherspoons.


6. They like their terms of affection.
Most times I'm served in a shop or ask for something in public I'm greeted with the term "love", which is very friendly and something I miss when I'm back at home. Amongst friends "chicken", "flower" and "petal" are commonly used.

7. Chip spice is a thing.
Before I went off to uni I thought I knew about most things. But low and behold on my first night of freshers, I discovered something totally new. It's called chip spice or red salt. You sprinkle it on your chips and they taste amazing.
NOM

8. They bloody love Vimto. 
Vimto was invented in Manchester in 1908 and the city can't get enough of the stuff. You can get hot Vimto  (I didn't even know this was a thing.) in most coffee shops and in every cafe on campus, and most clubs sell "cheeky Vimto", which is the well loved soft drink paired with vodka.

Mancs love the stuff.
9. I do have an accent.
I lived 19 years of my love thinking I didn't have an accent.Then I moved up north and realised how posh I sounded.

10. They think everywhere down south is London. 
Everyone assumes I'm from London when I say I'm from the south and look bewildered at me when I say Sussex. Normally I just give up and say "I'm an hour from London".


Don't even get me started on the bread debate.



Thursday 4 June 2015

Don't fear Hostels

So you want to get away for the summer. Maybe a city break or a beach holiday with friends, or for the adventurous a spot of inter railing. You've got a tight budget, so naturally the flights are booked with Easyjet. But then it comes to accommodation. As much as you'd like to go to the 5 star luxury hotel, let's be honest on your budget it's never going to happen. You can't be bothered to lug a tent around the airports and you're not up to trying couch surfing. So you settle on the youth hostel. And although many people get nervous about the thought of sleeping in a dorm with strangers from all around the world or don't like the fact that they might have to buy their own breakfast, there really isn't anything to fear about staying in hostels. In fact there's a lot to look forward to.

What's great about hostels is that they're all completely different. Unlike hotel chains, where everything is standardized and impersonal, each hostel has it's own quirks. Some may be art hostels  showcasing work from local artists, some maybe converted churches,banks, caves, schools or even prisons. The variety of hostels on offer means you can find exactly what you're looking for, whether you want a standard bed in a room or something a little more unusual. Staying somewhere that little bit different makes your trip even more memorable. Lets be honest your'e not going to rave about the amazing white room you had at the Holiday Inn now are you?

You could be staying here.
Also they are obviously  great value, but it's not just about getting a cheap bed for the night. Hostels provide a lot more than that. Most hostels offer free wifi, laundry facilities, free linen and housekeeping, kitchen and cooking facilities, a common/games room, meaning the amount you get for your money will make you think twice about a "cheap" stay at a Premier Inn. Most even have a bar or restaurant or cafe, which is the perfect place to meet other travellers. Some hostels, particularly those in big cities or aimed at young travellers, organise a range of soical events such as bar crawls and music nights, so if you so wish you can have the Malia lifestyle whilst in Berlin, Budapest or Bangkok. And you wont spend a fortune shelling out for fish-bowls either. And for those of you who love to cool down with a swim after a hard day's sightseeing or sun lounger hogging, then you don't need to miss out either, as many hostels have swimming pools, sun decks and even saunas. Basically there isn't anything you'd find in a hotel that a hostel can't replicate just as well. Except perhaps those little chocolates on your pillow.

Here.
Although the main thing that puts people off staying in hostels is the thought of sharing a dorm with strangers, this can be the best part of staying there.  This is the easiest way to meet people whilst travelling and acquire instant travelling companions and life long friends from all over the world. A friend of mine recently went on holiday to Munich by himself and within an hour or so of checking in had made several friends to hang around with, who were experienced travellers, so  knew all the best places to go. And although not everyone will be your cup of tea, and you might meet a few oddballs, you'll definitely meet some memorable characters, and discover different outlooks on living. Hey you might even find a few pen pals or future holiday companions. Even those who aren't social butterflies will soon open up and share travel stories with the harem pant wearing rastafarian on bunk two. Hostels make holidays an experience, rather than just a getaway.
Or even here. ( yes, these are all real hostels)

So next time you're craving a trip away, but don't think you've got the money for an all-inclusive blow out in Spain, consider the humble youth hostel and you may see you've got more than enough money for  that holiday you desperately need.

5 Tips for Youth Hostelling

1. Use general hostel search engines to compare prices and explore your options. I recommend  Hostelworld.com, as not only does it have a huge database, but all hostels are reviewed by travellers and rated out of 100 on aspects such as cleanliness, security and location, so you can find exactly what you're looking for. 

2. Check what is provided before you go. Some provide bed linen and towels for free, some don'



t. If you're doing a long trip and visiting several destinations stick a towel and sleeping bag in your backpack so you're flexible. 

3. Take a bike lock or a padlock with you for hostel lockers if you're staying in a dorm. Most should have padlocks, but it's good to be prepared just in case.

4. If you need transport from the airport email your hostel before your stay. A lot of city hostels will provide a cheap shuttle service if you let them know in advance. 

5. Make use of the staff on reception. With many hostels the staff are travellers and backpackers themselves, so will be able to give you tips on the best and cheapest places to go. Some hostels can also provide discounts on local restaurants and tourist attractions.